Tuesday 25 October 2011

Avignon

This weekend I decided to get out of town and visit my friend Georgina from Newcastle-Upon-Tyne who is also on her year abroad, teaching in the town of Avignon.
Only 20 minutes away from Aix-en-Provence by the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse), I headed off after my last university lecture of the week.

I've never been on the TGV before, but it's always been something I've wanted to do.
Arriving at the train station with plenty of time to spare, I validated my ticket before grabbing a café noir and enjoying one of my favourite past times; people watching.

I never expected the train station to be so busy, as it's 18km from the centre of Aix-en-Provence. But how wrong I was.
There were so many people there, of all ages rushing back and forth in a mad frenzy. I must admit, it was the hustle and bustle I had missed since arriving in France.



The train arrived, and departed right on time which was a pleasant change compared to public transport back in England.
I bought 2nd class tickets, which were more than comfortable for my 
derrière, and for my pocket. (I am a student after all).
If you haven't done so already, then it's worth investing in an SNCF carte 12-25 while you're in France as you can get up to 60% off your rail travel if you book in advance with it !


www.12-25-sncf.com




Avignon is a city in the south eastern region of France know as the Vaucluse.
The city is most famous for being the medieval town where many Popes resided before moving to the Vatican, in Rome.
Situated on the left bank of the river 
Rhône, the city occupies an oval shape area which is covered largely in parks and gardens, but also has many shops, bars and restaurants in the centre.

Once I'd dropped off my bag at the apartment, we headed straight back out so Georgina could give me a personal guided tour around town.
Walking through the old narrow side streets, passed numerous
boulangeries and pâtisseries, and seeing a fountain every now and then, I began to notice that Avignon just felt like a larger version of Aix-en-Provence.

Our first stop was the incredible Palais des papes which was built in 1309.
 We didn't venture inside, I was happy enough to stand outside and appreciate the detail and scale of it.
Just next to the palace is the cathédrale Notre Dame des Doms. We did go in for a look, and I'm so glad we did because the frescos at the dome of the cathedral were amazing.





Afterwards we walked up to les Jardins d'Eole where the statues, fountains and pond were like a secret garden you could escape to and let the world pass you by.
It was also an excellent view point of the famous Pont d'Avignon, a bridge which was constructed but never actually finished.








We also took some time to do a bit of shopping, and visited the main high street in Avignon; Rue de la République.
However, the only things we bought were a couple of brioches 
to snack on as we walked around town.



Later in the evening, we decided to go out for a few drinks with some of the teachers that Georgina works with.
We ended up at an English themed pub called "Red Sky". Home sweet home.
The French was flowing, as were the bières and it seemed we were in for a good night.
Ready to move to the next place, it was decided food was on the agenda, but as we'd eaten before we came out, we decided to go to somewhere else for a drink.

Walking through the town we stumbled across a place called L'Offset café, it didn't appeal to the others but we decided to go in (mainly because by that point it was very, very cold).
Once inside, we realised we'd discovered a gem.
A bar come restaurant, with a quirky and modern feel...this place had everything.
With an area near the entrance if you just wanted a few casual drinks, or tables at the back if you wanted to eat. Most importantly, it had an atmosphere to match both.

Sitting at the bar, the biggest surprise of the night was the band that were playing.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get their name, but they were very good.
Not keeping to a certain style of music they played songs by The Beatles to The Rolling Stones to Maroon 5, which everyone seemed to love and set the scene for the night.

If you ever go to Avignon then it's a must to have at least one quick drink here.






L'Offset Café
16, Bis rue des Teinturiers
84000
Avignon
France

Tél. : +33 (0)4.90.85.28.44.


Whether it's the historical ruins or the night life which draws you here, Avignon is most definitely worth a visit.

Monday 24 October 2011

Monaco

The reason I chose to come and study in Aix-en-Provence was because although I am a self-confessed "francophile", I had never actually been to the south of France before.
All of our family holidays were in the north, particularly in the regions of Bretagne, Normandie, Picardie and Pays de la Loire.

As a result of being here in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, I've been fortunate enough to visit places I've never had the chance to before such Nice, St.Paul de Vence, Cassis, Marseille, St. Raphael etc.
Last weekend was no different when I had the chance to visit Monaco; the famous principality on the Franco-Italian border and the city of Monte Carlo.

Sunday morning came and it was another early start, something I should be getting used to with all my travelling, but I can safely say I'm not.
We had to meet at La rotande and be ready to leave at 8:30am.
Although I was extremely tired, I was also rather excited about the day ahead.
As we all boarded the bus, for some bizarre reason we made a jolt for the seats at the very back...I could already tell we weren't going to sleep en route as we had intended.
Sat in prime seats, and what I can only describe as old school "bus banter", we seemed to arrive at Monaco in no time at all.
I guess this was most definitely helped by everyone (including the tour guide, George) laughing hysterically at my passport and driving licence photos.

We arrived around 11:30am, when George once again rattled off his now infamous catchphrase of "Allo, allo...allo" to tell us we'd arrived in time to walk up to the Princes' palace and see the changing of the guard.
At 12:00pm the bells tolled (a rather eerie tune), and the soldiers in their white uniforms marched to their positions at the palace gates.




After the parade, we walked around a while to take in the incredible views of Monaco
On one side looking up toward the mountains, apartments 
stretched as far as the eye could see, then on the other, the yachts of the über-rich were moored up side by side in the port like sardines.






After grabbing a quick bite to eat, we visited la cathédrale du Saint Nicolas which was more impressive than I initially thought it would be.
It is the burial place of many princes of Monaco, as well as the famous American actress, Grace Kelly.
We then sauntered over to la Palais de la Justice where we had a whistle stop tour and brief overview of the history of the building with other eager tourists.



After everyone clambered back on to the coach, we made our way down to Monte Carlo, most famous because of it's Formula 1 race and the casino.
(For anybody in the know, the casino was used as a set in the James Bond film "Casino Royale").
Monte Carlo is definitely for the rich and famous, there is no doubt about it. As we meandered through the streets, the designer shops such as Lanvin, Luis Vuitton and Chanel were just as abundant as super cars parked outside them.







As it was a sunday, and like all over France, the shops were closed. A lucky or an unlucky thing? I can't decide.
What we did decide on was to have a walk in the Jardin du Monaco, it wasn't very big, but there were some very nice fountains and it was a good opportunity for a group shot.




As we still had some time to kill, there was only one thing left to do : go to the casino!
However, after paying a rather steep 10€ entry fee we were rather low on cash. Once inside we also discovered that nobody really knew how to gamble.
We weren't off to the best start.
So not really knowing what we were doing, we all chipped in 1
€ (big spenders I know), took our chances and hoped for the best.
The best was moving around the casino from slot machine to slot machine and not really getting anywhere.
Time was up, we "cashed out" and made our way back to the bus.

On the way back to Aix-en-Provence, the sun was setting and a good day was had by all. I was asleep for the majority of the journey, only to be awoken by the occasional "allo, allo...allo" ...

Tuesday 18 October 2011

What a load of Planque

Last month in France there was the celebrated weekend of Les journées du Patrimoine when each town, city and region of France celebrates its vast heritage and culture by opening their museum doors and public gardens free of charge.
The event is a great opportunity to discover what a rich and diverse heritage the towns of France have to offer.

Here in Aix-en-Provence, there were many things available to visit such as the family home of artist Paul CézanneJas du Bouffan, the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle, as well as the gardens of the Vendôme Pavillon.
However, there was 
one specific event which caught my attention more than the others.
Advertised on banners on the Cours Mirabeau, as well as on a large advertisement board next to the L'Université de Provence Aix-Marseille I, was La collection Planque at the Musée Granet.



La fondation de Jean et Suzanne Planque was founded by the art collector Jean Planque shortly before his death in 1998, to preserve and promote the extensive collection of art he had created.
Planque had dreamt of becoming a painter, but instead turned his attention to collecting artwork and as a result of working for the Basel art dealer ship, Ernst Beyeler in 1954.
La collection Planque is now a collaboration of more than 120 masterpieces by famous artists such as;
Picasso

Renoir
Monet
Van Gogh
Braque
Léger
Dufy
and many, many more.


There is most definitely something for everyone in this exhibition as the work ranges from cubism, impressionism to post-impressionism.
However, don't panic because even if you don't know the difference between your Monet and your Manet, I would seriously recommend a visit to see the collection if you live in, or near Aix-en-Provence.






The collection has been extended to stay at the Musée Granet until 6th November 2011.


Musée Granet
Place Saint Jean de Malte
13100
Aix-en-Provence
France

Tél. : +33 (0)4.42.52.88.32.
    

Saturday 8 October 2011

A serious case of Les Bleus

The draw was too good to be true, and the day had finally arrived...
England v France in the Rugby World Cup 2011 quarter finals in New Zealand.

Unfortunately, since moving to Aix-en-Provence I've not seen much of the action from the World Cup as we don't have Canal+, the main sports channel here in France, in the house that I live in.
So rather than the norm of watching poor quality internet streams, or the highlights of matches on the news, my friends and I decided seen as it was a special occasion that we would go into the town centre and watch it with les gens.

The 9:30am K.O. was something I wasn't looking forward too, as it meant a very unwelcome 8:00am alarm.
Although I was très fatigué walking into town I was in surprisingly high spirits, and naively expecting a comfortable England victory.

We all met at La Rotande in the centre of town and went to an Irish pub called O'Sullivans, all hoping to have better luck than the Irish had earlier in the morning.
They suffered a 22-10 defeat at the hands of the Welsh, and I was praying we would not suffer a similar fate.

Surrounding by many locals, and after several café noirs to wake myself up, the match began...well, for the French at least.
There seemed to be no passion, desire or drive from the Red Rose boys and by half time and it was 16-0 to France.
Our heads were well and truly placed in the guillotine - it was do or die for the England players.
However, despite a stronger start from England in the second half, it was not enough to topple the French who eventually came out on top with a 19-12 victory.



I'm really disappointed England are out of the tournament, but France well and truly deserved the win.
All I can say now is Vive la France!...

Thursday 6 October 2011

The Italian Job



For many years now, Vespa scooters have been an iconic symbol of fast moving trends and fashion.
Initially created in 1943 by Erico Piaggio to provide low cost transport to the Italian public, the Vespa scooter rocketed in popularity and universally became très à la mode.

I've never hidden the fact that I've always had a bit of an obsession with Vespa scooters.
I've always longed to have my own, but in all honesty, Newcastle-upon-Tyne isn't exactly the ideal place to have, or be seen with one.

However, since moving to south of France, my desire to have my own has increased dramatically.
Everywhere I look in Aix-en-Provence there are Vespa's of all colours and models whizzing passed me left, right and centre... we all know how crazy the French are on the roads, and I can assure you that they drive no differently whether it be in a Renault 4, or on a Vespa scooter.

What I like about the Vespa is that it is suitable for everyone.
I regularly see people of all ages and sexes driving them, ranging from young, sharp suited business men who seem to be rather late for a very important rendez-vous, to an old man leaving his local boulangerie, baguette in hand and not a care in the world.





If I could have things my way, I'd have a jet black LX 125 ie Vespa, wear a smart suit, as well as my Ray Ban "Clubmaster" sunglasses and simply cruise down the Côte d'Azur coastline in the glorious southern French sun.
Malheureusement, the €2.900 price tag of my ideal Vespa is proving to be a bit of a set back on this one.
Any chance of my Eramus grant soon please? Thought not.


I guess for the moment I'll have to keep dreaming, but as the Italians say; "Campa cavallo!" ...


www.vespa.com

Monday 3 October 2011

La vie en Provence!

Regardless of the fact that I've been in Aix-en-Provence for over a month now, I have only just started to feel like I actually live here.
Everyone knows that life in France, particularly in the south, is a lot more relaxed than in England but there's a certain je ne sais quoi about life here in Aix-en-Provence.
Maybe it's the glorious sunshine which greets you each and every morning, the aroma of fresh croissants and baguettes from the numerous boulangeries or the characteristic Provençal architecture of the town centre.
I can't really put my finger on it, but there's something special about Aix-en-Provence.

To cut a long story short, the last few weeks have been a total whirlwind. 
I've had many challenges to overcome ranging from opening a French bank account - an absolute nightmare and more paperwork than needed, to trying to finalise my modules and my timetable at l'Université de Provence Aix-Marseille I.
Let alone getting used to my new home, the town and speaking French 24/7. Culture shock happens guys!
Also, for those of you who are Erasmus students, take note: DO NOT expect much help from University staff in France.
The system here is very different to England, and they couldn't care less you don't know what you're doing.

However, it has not been all doom and gloom!
I have taken the opportunity to visit some amazing places already since I've been in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. Here's a few photos of where I've been so far:


Aix-en-Provence




Nice




Cassis


Marseille



Saint-Raphaël



Finally everything has settled down and I'm looking forward to my time here, I think I'm going to enjoy la vie en provence...